William Kelley takes a look at how white Burgundy from the 2008 vintage has evolved with Sarah Marsh MW and David Robert MW…
White Burgundy 2008 tasting notes below
In April, a tasting of white Burgundies from 2008, organised by Sarah Marsh MW and hosted by David Robert MW of Goedhuis & Co, afforded an opportunity to check in on the vintage’s evolution as they approach their ninth birthday.
The 2008 growing season did not get off to an auspicious start, with unseasonably cool temperatures and rain in June and July, followed by a cool, grey August. Hail on the border between Volnay and Meursault struck shortly after fruit set, reducing yields though it came too early in the year to appreciably impact quality. Rot and mildew pressure was high.
A sunny September, however, permitted growers to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat, bringing the grapes to full maturity, while a constant north wind impeded the spread of rot and concentrated both sugar and acidity.
- Read Sarah Marsh MW’s original Burgundy 2008 thoughts here
- Read more about the Burgundy 2015 overview
As a set, the wines showed well, meeting optimistic expectations. In the era of premature oxidation, opening twenty-two white Burgundies is inevitably a nerve-wracking exercise for consumers and producers alike, but only two wines were clearly advanced. The remainder were aging gracefully.
The influence of botrytis—which imparts musky, exotic top-notes to white Burgundy—didn’t really make itself felt, somewhat to my surprise. What’s more, the wines wore their high acidities well, generally revealing nice gloss and texture to balance their structural spines.
Many can be approached now but the best wines clearly show the potential to further gain complexity and plenitude with time in bottle.
Thanks to David and Sarah.
Patrick Javillier, Meursault, Cuvée Les Clousots, 2008
Javillier’s ‚Clousots‘ – a blend of two lieu-dits, Les Clous from the hillside and Les Crotots on the plain – is ageing gracefully, offering …
88
Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet, Meursault, Les Tessons, 2008
Fichet’s 2008 Tessons is a terrific wine, and one of the most taut and backward in this tasting too. Notes of apple, pear, iodine and a lick of struck match reduction introduce a concentrated, tensile palate built around a spine of acid and minerality. There is plenty of fat and…
93
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, Clos de la Barre, 2008
This is an exceptionally fresh, vibrant wine from Comtes Lafon, showing no sign of the premature oxidation problems which have…
93
Domaine Remi Jobard, Meursault, Genevrieres 1er Cru, 2008
Remi Jobard’s 2008 Genevrières is a very good realisation of his minimalist aesthetic, opening in the glass with a bouquet of…
92
Domaine Ballot Millot, Meursault, Les Charmes 1er Cru, 2008
The Ballot-Millot Charmes, served from magnum, is a very youthful wine and reveals impressive raw materials, but it is just a bit too…
89
Domaine Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy, 2008
A classic village Puligny from Louis Carillon, whose historic domaine was divided between sons Jacques and François from 2009…
90
Domaine Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Perrières
A stunning wine of very high quality, Carillon’s Perrières bursts from the glass with a pretty bouquet of peach, citrus zest, apple, smoke and iodine. On the palate the wine is…
94
Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières
Chavy’s Folatières is drinking very well, revealing a complex and expressive nose of confit citrus, smoke, spring flowers and a nicely-integrated…
91
Olivier Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet, Les Pucelles 1er Cru,
Olivier Leflaive’s Pucelles reveals a rather extrovert nose of smoke, Cantaloupe melon, preserved citrus and a framing of toasty oak. On the palate…
90
Domaine Philippe Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Les
Colin’s pure, modern aesthetic (which sometimes evokes Riesling as much as Chardonnay) is exemplified by this bottling of…
91
Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot 1er
Alex Moreau’s Morgeot is dependably superb, and the 2008 is no exception. Notes of citrus oil, crème pâtissière, apple, pear and…
93
The post White Burgundy 2008 revisited on their ninth birthday appeared first on Decanter.
Quelle: Wine News | Decanter – White Burgundy 2008 revisited on their ninth birthday
Published by