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Wine Legend: Comte de Vogüé, Musigny 1990

Why it made the Decanter hall of fame…

Wine Legend: Comte de Vogüé, Musigny 1990, Burgundy, France

Number of bottles produced 15,000

Composition 100% Pinot Noir

Yield 35hl/ha

Alcohol content 13.6%

Release price 311 francs (£39.25 at today’s price)

Current price £714-£790 a bottle

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A legend because…

990 capped a trio of fine vintages in Burgundy, and this wine was widely recognised to have been one of the year’s greatest successes, showing a remarkable intensity and purity of fruit. Perfumed and delicate, silky yet imposing, it has always showed a tranquil opulence and perfect poise, as well as extraordinary length. It’s the quintessence of great red Burgundy. The quality of the wine struck tasters forcibly because the 1980s had been a dull patch for the estate, and the 1990 showed it was once again realising the potential of what many consider to be the finest vineyard in all of Burgundy.

Looking back

The magnificent de Vogüé estate, in the hands of the same family since 1450, had been in the doldrums for much of the 1970s and 1980s. The owner, Comte Georges de Vogüé, who died in 1987, had been an absentee landlord for the half-century that the property was in his hands. By the late 1980s it was being run by his daughter, the Baronne de Ladoucette, and her son-in-law, the Comte de Causans, but he died soon after taking up his post.

In the late 1980s there were drastic changes, thanks to a new team. By 1986 a new winemaker had arrived on the scene: François Millet. He was fully aware that the potential of the estate’s great sites was not being realised, and set in place a series of improvements, working closely with the estate manager Jean-Luc Pépin and vineyard manager Eric Bourgogne. Thus only vines over 25 years old were selected for the Musigny, with grapes from younger vines bottled as premier cru Chambolle. The spurt in the wines’ quality provided ample evidence of Millet’s ability, but he was notoriously uncommunicative about his winemaking approach, merely stating that he adapted the vinification and ageing to the nature of each vintage.

The vintage

Like 1989, this was a splendid and very warm year in Burgundy, but in 1990 the flowering was less even than the year before, which reduced the crop. With hindsight it can be claimed that this gave the grapes an additional concentration of flavour. The hot, dry summer thickened the skins, concentrating the juice even further, and giving a good dose of tannin to support the unctuous fruit.

The terroir

The Musigny vineyard is a wonderful, 11ha (hectare) grand cru site, lying just above and to the north of the Château du Clos Vougeot. It is less easy is to define precisely why the Musigny vineyard regularly produces the most exquisite of all grand cru Burgundies. The site slopes gently, its thin topsoil containing a good deal of clay as well as small stones, and there are subtle variations from plot to plot. But excellent terroir on the mid-slopes of the Côte de Nuits is not rare, and yet Musigny is undoubtedly exceptional, if not unique. One Musigny proprietor, Frédéric Mugnier, suggests its character may derive from the even distribution of water in the subsoil. But even he admitted this was just speculation. With more than 7ha in Musigny, de Vogüé owns the lion’€™s share.

The wine

Low yields and old vines are the prerequisite for the de Vogüé Musigny. Harvesting is not especially late, as the team is opposed to any hint of overripeness. Millet favours a lapse of time before fermentation, which takes place with indigenous yeasts in wooden vats, but he sets down no rules. He is no fan of unbridled new oak, and the proportion used in the grand cru wine is generally around one-third.

The reaction

Because of their relative scarcity and the absence of an en primeur market, the top wines of Burgundy don’t generate the same crop of reviews as those of Bordeaux. So published comments of this wine are thin on the ground. Clive Coates MW found nothing to fault: ‘Brilliant nose! Super-concentrated. Very good oak integration. Great intensity. Multi-dimensional. Essence of raspberry… One of the wines of the vintage.’€™ When he tasted it again in 2009, he preferred it to the also highly rated 1993 vintage, adding that he would like to retaste it in five years’€™ time. Some critics have labelled the 1990 ‘Bordeauxesque’€™, to which Millet replies: ‘€˜Only those who tasted from barrel know the true potential of this wine.’

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Wine and charcuterie pairing

With salt, fat and spice, there are plenty of flavours to consider when finding a wine to go with your charcuterie board. We get the experts’ advice…

Wine and charcuterie pairing

Regional and style matches

‘The first rule for me, is to go for regional matches whenever possible,’ said Yuri Gualeni, restaurant and wine manager at Tratra wine bar and restaurant in London. ‘If I know where the charcuterie is made, then I’ll know a wine.’

‘As with most pairing, we would always look to match lighter flavoured meats to lighter wines,’ said Sean Cannon, managing director of British charcuterie company Cannon & Cannon and Nape wine bar in London.

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The 10 rules of food and wine pairing

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Watch out for salt and fat

Given the high salt content in cured meats, freshness is key when picking a wine. Salt in food softens the acidity in wine, so choose higher acidity styles.

‘Acidity works well to refresh the palate, as fat and salt together are quite dominant factors in tasting,’ said Cannon.

Acidity also helps to cut through the often fatty cuts used for charcuterie.

‘Fat goes well with acid and citrus. A decent vintage Champagne and smoked lardo are great bedfellows,’ said Cannon.

Gualeni agrees ‘Fatty meats need bubbles and acidity.’

Other flavours to consider

‘Think about if it’s very meaty or something more subtle,’ said Gualeni. ‘Whether it’s cured, spiced or herbed too.’

‘German salami, for example,tends to be a bit spicy, so go for something juicy and light bodied, like a Beaujolais.’

You could also match the spiciness with a spicy wine, said Cannon.

‘Highly aromatic meats such as a fennel salami will often pair well with spicy reds such as Northern Italian young red wines.’

What to avoid

‘Nothing like a very grassy Sauvignon Blanc with salami or sauccison,’ said Gualeni.

‘And nothing with too much structure or complexity; Napa Cabernet Sauvignon would be too difficult. It would clash, and you wouldn’t enjoy either of the two.’

Cannon agrees ‘I am yet to find a good match in charcuterie for Bordeaux blends. I think the tannin, wood and darker leathery flavours struggle to be matched by the delicate flavours of charcuterie.’

All-rounder wines

‘If you’ve got a whole selection of different styles on your charcuterie board, an Anjou or a light Loire red is a good all-rounder. Also Lambrusco – it’s light, fruity, bubbles,’ said Gualeni.

‘And if you’ve got cheese as well, go for an Italian Amarone or Valpolicella.’

More food and wine pairing:

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Barbecue sardines with garlic and lemon – and wines to match

Fresh sardines sizzling on the barbecue are a beautiful sight in summer. We’ve teamed up with Alex Head, founder and chef at Social Pantry, to bring you this delicious recipe, with wine pairing suggestions from the Decanter team.

‘Sardines are a brilliant alternative to salmon,’ says Alex Head, of London-based caterer and events organiser Social Pantry. ‘I love them, they’re great on the BBQ and can be easily cooked in the oven if the heavens open.’

That’s less of a risk if you’re reading this in Los Angeles, but a recurring feature of summer in the UK.

How to make barbecue sardines with lemon and garlic 

Recipe by Alex Head

Serves: 2 people

What you’ll need:

• 6 sardines
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 4 tbsp good quality olive oil
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
• 1 tsp of paprika
• Malden sea salt
• Cracked black pepper

Method:

1. To create your marinade, mix the garlic, oil, lemon, parsley, paprika, salt and pepper.
2. Place the sardines on a shallow tray and cover in the marinade.
3. Set aside in the fridge for 30 minutes.
4. Skewer two or three fish onto metal or wooden skewers. Top tip: whilst the fish is marinating, soak wooden skewers in water to avoid scorching during cooking.
5. Cook the sardines on a high-heat BBQ for 2 – 3 minutes before flipping over. Then cook for a further 3 minutes until cooked through.

Side serving: Enjoy with a fresh green salad and lemon yoghurt

Wines to match with sardines on the barbecue:

• High acid whites with citrus flavours

• Avoid heavy reds with big tannins

White wines

A minerally Albariño, such as those from Rías Baixas in north-west Spain, should match the salt of the fish and the citrus of the lemon, whilst be transparent enough to let the food shine.

A Picpoul de Pinet from Languedoc-Roussillon in southern France should also have the acidity and citrus notes to pair well with this dish.

Both are good alternatives to Sauvignon Blanc, which would be a more classic match.

Red wines

When it comes to red wines, oily fish can react with tannins to leave a metallic taste in the mouth. In other words, leave your vintage Bordeaux and Barossa Shiraz in the cellar for another day.

Try lighter styles of red with decent levels of acidity. Beaujolais or Valpolicella DOC would be good places to start. Try a traditionally lighter Beaujolais Cru like Fleurie. We would even suggest popping some of these reds in the fridge to chill before serving them with your sardines.

Wine pairings by Chris Mercer and James Button. 

Back to Decanter.com’s main barbecue wines page 

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About Alex Head and Social Pantry

Alex Head is the owner and founder of events and corporate catering company Social Pantry with a café in Battersea, south London, of the same name.

Alex strives to take the fear out of entertaining by placing emphasis on fresh, seasonal and accessible food presented in an elegant, personal way. With all her recipes, Alex encourages social entertaining by showing how easy it is to jump in the kitchen and cook up a feast for a crowd.

 

 

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Rioja vs Ribera wine quiz – Test your knowledge

How well do you know these two Spanish fine wine powerhouses? Test your knowledge on Rioja and Ribera del Duero with the decanter.com quiz.

Rioja and the Ribera del Duero are two of the most recognisable names in Spanish wine. They share many similarities as well as a few differences, which make each region’s wines unique and exciting. How much do you know about them?

Scroll down to take our quiz and find out.

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Prosecco doughnuts: The latest wine flavoured trend?

New Yorkers can celebrate National Prosecco Day enjoying Prosecco infused doughnuts.

Prosecco doughnuts: The latest wine flavoured trend?

Italian winemaker Ruffino has teamed up with The Doughnut Project to develop the Prosecco flavoured doughnuts, in time for National Prosecco Day later this month.

The Doughnut Project has already produced a series of cocktail flavoured doughnuts, showcasing local bars of New York.

‘We have done many alcohol infused doughnuts in the past,’ said Leslie Polizzotto, the co-owner of The Doughnut Project.

‘Because of our track record, we were approached by Ruffino to do a Prosecco doughnut in honour of National Prosecco Day on 13th August.’

The doughnuts will be on sale in their West Village Morton Street shop from 14 till 20 August, at $4.25. The sweet treat will be decorated with a variety of sprinkles.

This is not the first attempt to bring Prosecco ‘out of the bottle’.

Earlier this year, Pops, a UK based company, introduced alcoholic popsicles with variety of flavours, including Champagne and Prosecco Bellini.

Other wine infused treats include rosé flavoured gummy bears and wine lollipops.

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The growth of Prosecco

A recent survey by the Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) revealed that 97% of the participants between the age of 18 and 24 drank Prosecco. The WSTA’s report showed that sales of sparkling wine last year increased by 12%.

In 2016, UHY Hacker Young, accountancy group, revealed that sales of sparkling wine in the UK had increased 80% over the previous five years.

The consumptions is expected to still grow, a Vinexpo report published in March predicted an increase of nearly 19% to 15.2 million cases by 2020.

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Taste and buy award-winning wines at Museum Wines this August

Want to taste wines from this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards? Receive great deals and discounts when you visit Museum Wines this August.

Based in a converted barn in Dorset’s Tarrant Valley, importer, wholesaler and retailer Museum Wines boasts a collection of over 300 wines. With a selection of remarkable value wines as well as a range of classics, there’s something for everyone.

This August they will be promoting eight DWWA winning wines from around the world. The wines on offer include:

• Gabriel Meffre, Laurus, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rhône, France, 2015  – available to pre-order
• Gabriel Meffre, Saint-Théodoric, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France, 2015  – available to pre-order
• Holden Manz, Cabernet Franc, Franschoek, South Africa, 2014
• Holden Manz, Big G, Franschoek, South Africa, 2013
• Pazo Señorans, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Mainland Spain, Spain, 2016
• Pazo Señorans, Selección de Añada Albariño, Rías Baixas, Mainland Spain, Spain, 2008
• Famille Sumeire, Château l’Afrique, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2016
• Hecht & Bannier, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2016

Pop into store on  26^th August for a free tasting of all eight winners.

Museum Wines will also be giving away complimentary tickets to the first-ever Dorset Wine Festival on orders over £500.

 

 

Promotional period: 21st August 2017 – 4th September 2017
Address: Museum Wines, No 8 Wine Co, Tarrant Hinton, Dorset DT11 8JX
Website: www.museumwines.co.uk

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